English French German Spain Italian Dutch Russian Portuguese Japanese Korean Arabic Chinese Simplified

Veronica Mountain Ice Climbing

Posted: by EFREN LOPEZ in Labels: ,

Veronica mountain Apu wacaywillca is located  north west of Cusco city, is the highest mountain into Urbamba range, its summit reach 5911m/19393 ft located at coordinates 13 ° 9'52 .49 "S 72 ° 19'34 .11" O, considered a tropical mountain because is located in the northwest corner of Urubamba mountain range, a natural border that divides the Andean region of the jungle.

The last week of May I participated of a mountaineering expedition to reach the summit of Veronica mountain, by the south east route. thanks to Nate Heald invitation  and Sky High Expeditions. Among objectives of expedition were to reach mountain summit with the first woman and the first Brazilian mountaineer, expedition was planned for 4 days with 8 people including experienced mountaineers and guides.

The first day expedition early in the morning we headed north to Malaga pass over 4300 m, once there we got ready and the team began the approach walking west about 4 hrs to base camp over 4600 mtrs there we set camp and took the rest of the day to acclimatize and rest.

The Second day in the morning we continued towards the advanced camp over 4900 m 1 hour walk, but when we reached it and set tents, 4 people of the expedition did not feel good because altitude so they decided to return to base camp. e continued, it took a couple of hours more to set a rope at the start of the route then we returned to the advanced camp.
 with only 4 of us, we decided to continue.  Nate leaders of expedition, Waldemar a renowned Brazilian mountaineer, me and Macario. we sleep the rest of the night and left the advanced camp at 12 30 pm in total darkness. Definitely this is a technical mountain so we climbed to alpine style because the speed and the time it takes to reach the top and return.
Third day at dawn climbing continued by a mixed part (rock and ice) of approx 40 ms then a long gutter of 50 degree tilt and 300 m  direct to south ridge, about 5 am,  on the the ridge the sun rose, the average slope of walls varies between about 65 and 75 degrees with some technical steps on crevasses covered with soft snow in the last 3 hours of climbing.

May 29, 2014 at 8 30 am, after 8 hours climbing we reached the top of the Veronica mountain Apu Wacaywilca the highest mountain of Urubamba range, an spectacular scenery of the mountain ranges that surround this peak as Vilcanota Urumanba and vilcabamba ranges, an amazing landscape. After rest 1 hour on the summit we went back descending by same ridge with  loose snow due to sun, which exposed the crevasses a little more then we unclimbed the 300 m gutter and rappel the mix part we return to advanced camp about 3 30 pm and decided to descend to base camp on the same day.

the fourth day after breakfast our team got ready and walked about 3 hours return to Tastayoc for take the  transportation back to Cusco.
Important to note that the best months to climb Veronica mountain are May, June and July because snow conditions and the appearance of crevasses in the route, Definitely a challenge this is not a mountain for beginners because it involves a high degree of technical skills in mountaineering, good physical condition, acclimatization.

For further info contact us: elefrenlp64@gmail.com